Building a Craftsman Style Staircase and Handrail Podcast By cover art

Building a Craftsman Style Staircase and Handrail

Building a Craftsman Style Staircase and Handrail

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 In this episode, I help a Colorado Springs Client remodel their staircase. The existing staircase was a straight run with an outdated style. I redesigned it to have open-ended steps with a craftsman handrail. Summary Building a Custom Staircase with a Handrail When a client wanted to modernize their outdated staircase to match their new hickory flooring, I took on the challenge of transforming it into an open-ended tread design with a custom handrail. Here’s how I tackled the project—from demolition to final installation. Assessing the Existing Staircase The original staircase had a dated design that didn’t complement the new flooring. The clients wanted an open-ended tread style, which required significant modifications. Before installation, I had to: Remove the old treads (which were dadoed into the skirt board).Cut new stringers.Reframe sections of the wall to support the new structure. Since the drywall corners were fragile after demolition, I reinforced them by sliding in new framing between the stringers and drywall and securing it to the existing studs. Fabricating Custom Components To ensure a seamless fit, I pre-fabricated most of the staircase components in my workshop. Crafting the Treads While custom-sized treads could be ordered, local millwork shops couldn’t accommodate the exact specifications needed to wrap around the existing walls. So, I milled my own: Glued up stock to the required thickness.Used a router with a large nosing bit to shape the front edge.Clipped the corners at the table saw to reduce router load and prevent tear-out (hickory is prone to splintering).Used feather boards at the router table for a clean, consistent profile. For the open-ended treads, I cut miters on the table saw. The bottom tread required a notch for the newel post, so I: Attach the center nosing with dominoes and glue.Pre-cut the miter on a longer piece before trimming it to length for safety.Tacked the return in place with brad nails. Constructing the Newel Post To match the home’s existing door panel design, I built a newel post with the illusion of floating panels: Ripped and laminated quarter-sawn stock.Added mitered corner trim (held together with glue tape since clamps wouldn’t work on such thin pieces).Pre-finished the post before installing the trim to prevent raw wood exposure from seasonal movement.Used a headless pin nailer for a clean, nearly invisible installation. The post featured three horizontal rails (bottom, middle, and top) to match the home’s interior doors. For consistency, I used a spacer block to align the middle rails perfectly. Creating the Post Cap The decorative cap required precise miter cuts to meet cleanly in the center. I: Used a shop-made vertical sled to hold the workpiece.Cut cross-grain first to minimize tear-out, then with the grain for a smooth finish.Reset the saw blade to 90° to cut decorative shoulders.Installed with glue and brad nails, trimming the underside with cove molding. Prepping the Spindles With 20 spindles and cross braces to assemble, efficiency was key: Jointed, planed, and squared each spindle.Cut angled cross braces using a shim clamped near the table saw blade to prevent kickback.A stop block and miter gauge were used for repeatable cuts. Joinery with the Domino While some woodworkers debate using a Domino joiner, it was a game-changer for this project. With 72 mortises needed for the cross braces, it saved hours of work. I: Built jigs with angled stop blocks for consistent placement.Pre-finish spindle assemblies before glue-up to avoid staining difficulties later.Routed oblong dowel holes in the spindle bases for slight adjustability during installation. Final Assembly & Installation Once all components were ready, I: Assembled spindle units using a jig aligned with the staircase’s rise and run.Attached spindles to treads with dowels.Installed custom-milled handrail (a complex profile best left to a professional millwork shop). Lessons Learned Hickory is tricky—it splinters easily, so careful milling and routing techniques are essential.Pre-finishing saves time—staining and sealing components before assembly prevents missed spots.Always check building codes—misinformation is common, so refer to official sources to avoid costly mistakes. The Finished Staircase The final result was a sleek, modern staircase that perfectly complemented the home’s new flooring. Every custom detail—from the handrail to the newel post—was crafted for both aesthetics and durability.
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