EP 35 – Kristin Arnold & Sheldon Kerr – Break Down Barriers – Female Guides Requested Podcast

Kristin’s & Sheldon’s Links:

• Moxie Website: https://www.moxiemountainguides.com/
• The indigenous organization Moxie supports in SW CO: https://store.southernute-nsn.gov/product-category/bgcsu/
• All In Ice Fest: https://allinicefest.com/
• DEI trainings Kristin and Sheldon have completed and activists from the community that have helped to support their learning: Check Your Privilege: https://www.checkyourprivilege.co/store & Habit Queer: https://www.habitqueer.com/about-me
• These Colorado Women Are Reframing What It Means to Be a Mountain Guide – 5280
• The Woman Who Is Pushing for Gender Equality in the Guiding World – Powder

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have two guests, Kristin Arnold and Sheldon Kerr, founders of Moxie Mountain Guides. I was super excited to finally pinned them down from their busy schedule to have this conversation. When I edited this episode, I paused multiple times to reflect and ask myself questions. What is a guide? What is a good guide? What are the so-called soft skills and how do they play a role in risk management? I learned so much from them and I’m so happy that they started Moxie.

Both Kristin and Sheldon are IFMGA mountain guides. IFMGA stands for International Federation of Mountain Guides Association, and their certification is the highest credential attainable by a professional mountain guide. As of spring 2024, they are 2 of 17 total women IFMGA in the US. Together they created Moxie Mountain Guides to align the profession of guiding with their values. Let me share a quote from their website “We guide for good. We believe representation matters. We want the mountain to be inclusive space for women, non-binary and trans-identifying backcountry athletes – no matter your body type, race, or gender.” Moxie strives to break down the social and financial barriers to accessing high-end technical instruction.

Kristin and Sheldon are also AMGA Instructor Team members. They teach AMGA mountain guide programs, including women’s Rock Guide course. I heard encouraging stories from their students and was curious to learn more about their philosophy and approach. In this episode we had a deep dive into what affinity space does, why inclusion is a fundamental component of risk management, how we should advocate equality and justice, and what professionalism means to guides. You will recognize their voices very quickly when you start listening, but to give you a head start. The first person talked was Kristin.

Without further ado, let’s go and enjoy the Moxie ride!

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is the third episode of the "Everything SPI" series. And yes I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today we have a guest from the AMGA office, Andrew Megas-Russell. Andrew is the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. He oversees the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.

The main topic of the episode was the new evaluation system. We talked about the background of transitioning from the old system to the new system and what the AMGA is trying to accomplish with the new system. We looked at the new scoring system and what factors would impact the score. We discussed how the new system has been received by the providers and candidates, etc. We also talked about other general topics such as high standard versus minimum standard, continuing future improvements on the SPI program, interesting stats, and exciting upcoming changes.

Links:

Official AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Page

SPI Program handbook

EP 20 Everything SPI 01 Professionalism & Risk Management

EP 29 Everything SPI 02 Site Selection & Group Management

Andrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/

What We Talked About

• Andrew's role in AMGA. Why is he relevant to SPI programs
• From the old eval system to the new eval system
• Overview of the new system and major improvements of the new system
• How to interpret the score? Addition? Subtraction?
• How do SPI providers and SPI candidates feel about the new scoring system?
• What's a strong written evaluation?
• The different roles played by the post exam debrief and written evaluation
• Is there an appeal process?
• Is it appropriate to say that SPI is an entry-level course?
• Are there too many SPIs out there?
• Interesting stats

Show Notes:

Jo’s Links:

• Ladies Weekend Out (website)
• Golden State Guiding (website)
• Jo’s instagram : www.instagram.com/jessielyse
• Jo’s Jess of All Trades Instagram: www.instagram.com/madebyjessofalltrades

Episode Intro:

Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I have been teaching and guiding in Pacific Northwest for the past month. I know you all have been waiting for another episode and I finally had a few rest days to edit this one out and present it to you!

Today’s guest is Jessica Olson. She often goes by her initials Jo. Born and raised in Southern California, Jo grew up traveling with her family and growing an appreciation for the outdoors. She was introduced to climbing through some college friends, and has been growing in the industry for over a decade. In 2016, Jo took an SPI Course and became a Single Pitch Instructor, where she went to work a summer in Alaska before moving to the PNW to grow more as a Rock Guide. She is now based in Bishop, CA, is an Apprentice Rock and Alpine Guide, and runs the Ladies Weekend Out programs, facilitated through Golden State Guiding. These programs focus on gathering like minded women to learn foundational skills in setting oneself up for the adventures ahead.

I met Jo when I worked with her at one of the Ladies Weekend Out events in Red Rock this past spring. I was impressed by her enthusiasm, the way she connected with the group of women, and her philosophy of giving climbing instruction! During the interview, I had so much fun. Jo was a good story teller and had a great sense of humor. She is also a handyperson, and runs a side gig called Jess of All Trades! Now please enjoy the show.

Things We Talked about:

• Jo’s backstories – managing horses, youth climbing coach, outdoor guides, handyperson
• Transition from gym to outdoors – the initial goal to becoming a guide
• Inspired by great mentors – learned the philosophy of climbing instruction
• Facing the reality, insurance?
• A summer in Alaska
• From CA to AK to PNW to van
• Ladies Weekend Out (LWO) programs and events
• Jo’s roles in LWO
• Why do many women keep coming back to LWO?
• Jo’s passion project – mentormovement
• What kind of mentorship ideas? Any structure?
• How to make passion projects sustainable to avoid burn-outs?
• Mentor Movement within LWO?
• Needed help and encouraged guides of LWO to collaborate organically.