Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.

Rúngne:

core-api.club.co/s/mgJAdCRcYDhTk

👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.

Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’

(00:05:13) – Rock Stars

(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid

(00:15:14) – Unfinished business

(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects

(00:23:50) – Untapped potential

(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As

(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project

(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders

(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing

(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado

(00:48:40) – Patxi training

(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes

(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps

(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps

(01:05:41) – The Olympics

(01:07:40) – Speed climbing

(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall

(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics

(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock

(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career

(01:32:50) – The monster within

(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes

(01:38:50) – 8a at 80

(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale

(01:41:59) – Finger size

(01:45:09) – Hugo

(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things

(01:48:15) – What’s next

(01:49:21) – Wrap up

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island

(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching

(00:06:30) – The Air Force

(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time

(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force

(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly

(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing

(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training

(00:35:20) – India

(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids

(00:53:54) – Sofia

(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile

(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn

(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer

(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength

(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing

(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout

(01:26:36) – Example training week

(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention

(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process

(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself

(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions

(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late

(02:05:28) – How to find your passion

(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project

(02:22:37) – Future plans

(02:24:02) – Favorite training music

(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual

(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type

(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016

(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film

(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations

(02:35:59) – Photography

(02:38:04) – Patagonia

(02:38:54) – Follow your dream

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ron

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:01) – Fish sticks

(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other

(00:15:08) – Threads & identity

(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules

(00:31:15) – Follow your heart

(00:43:32) – Vision Quest

(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing

(01:01:02) – The essence

(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force

(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering

(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers

(01:30:39) – Flow & precision

(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line

(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom

(01:46:31) – Le Blonde

(01:48:19) – Motivation

(01:54:04) – A good feeling

(01:56:24) – Mother Earth

(01:57:37) – A personal path

(01:58:49) – Wrap up

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caroline-ciavaldini

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:32) – Growing up in La Réunion

(00:07:14) – How Caro started climbing

(00:09:25) – Early competing

(00:14:03) – Her mom’s suicide

(00:21:29) – Mental coaching

(00:25:27) – Magic & selfishness

(00:37:42) – Competition vs. outdoor skills

(00:46:18) – Eating disorders & food obsession

(00:54:37) – Recovery & satiety

(01:01:13) – Becoming adventurous

(01:08:09) – Trad moments

(01:15:43) – Trips with Yuji Hirayama

(01:20:38) – Discussing hard things with kids

(01:24:42) – Paradoxes & genetics

(01:30:25) – Yellow

(01:36:41) – Le Voyage & retraining fear

(01:44:24) – Naming emotions

(01:48:45) – Gentle feminism

(01:58:07) – Women’s cycles

(02:03:28) – Menopause & aging in climbing

(02:13:20) – The struggles of a pro athlete

(02:21:31) – House projects & side hustles

(02:26:22) – Wrap up

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks

(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing

(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays

(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love

(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing

(00:26:03) – Book of Hate

(00:31:11) – Planet Earth

(00:33:39) – The first cell phones

(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness

(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing

(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing

(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja

(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40

(01:13:44) – Almost drowning

(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully

(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus

(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled

(01:39:21) – Piloting

(01:49:55) – More route development

(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon

(01:56:26) – Time

(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.

Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviews

Or skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.

How You Can Help:

https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit

(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system

(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978

(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues

(00:18:36) – Formative experiences

(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan

(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style

(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles

(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught

(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles

(01:20:00) – How we can help

(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation

(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities

(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.

Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkin

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:57) – How I met Sol

(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots

(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW

(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth

(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea

(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing

(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain

(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer

(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things

(00:54:43) – Short of breath

(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2

(01:03:33) – E-bikes

(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication

(01:21:54) – Chylothorax

(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying

(01:28:39) – Surgery 3

(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged

(01:36:40) – Bonus life

(01:41:55) – A final hurdle

(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift

(01:54:14) – Sailing

(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing

(02:08:48) – Goals

(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism

(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore

(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing

(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering

(02:34:38) – What’s next

(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing

(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets

(03:06:19) – Let’s go!