In this conversation, April Denny shares her journey from growing up in Marin County, California, to becoming a PhD candidate focused on human movement and performance in surfing. She discusses her experiences as a lifeguard, her transition to studying kinesiology, and her research on elite female athletes as part of the Paddle to Podium project.

April emphasizes the importance of a holistic approach to training and the need for injury prevention in surfing. She also reflects on her time in Australia, working closely with athletes and coaches, and her aspirations for the future.

Surf Strong Show

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April on Facebook

April on Instagram

Chapters

00:00 Growing Up by the Ocean

03:05 Transitioning to College Life

06:01 Exploring Kinesiology and Lifeguarding

08:55 Researching Big Wave Surfers

11:07 Journey to Graduate Studies

13:56 Lifeguarding at Ocean Beach

16:49 Training and Team Dynamics

19:50 Experiences at Kelly Slater's Wave Park

22:20 The Unique Environment of Wave Parks

27:10 The Dynamics of Surfing and Performance Improvement

32:26 Research and Education in Surfing

36:34 Navigating the PhD Journey

43:05 Cultural Insights: Surfing in Australia

48:11 Transitioning to a New Environment

51:22 Embedded Research and Athlete Support

55:19 Injury Prevention and Strength Training for Athletes

57:32 Research Focus: Preparing Female Athletes for the Olympics

01:01:23 Developing Effective Interventions for Skill Improvement

01:05:00 Challenges in Training Surfers vs. Swimmers

01:07:23 Key Findings on Stroke Dynamics and Injury Prevention

01:13:53 Community and Future Directions in Research

01:22:07 Podcast Outro.mp4

In this conversation, Jason shares his journey from academia to the military, detailing his experiences in combat and the challenges of transitioning to civilian life. He discusses the importance of finding purpose after service and highlights the mission of Operation Healing Forces, which focuses on supporting veterans and their families through retreats.

The conversation emphasizes the healing power of surfing, exploring how it fosters connection, personal challenge, and emotional growth. Jason reflects on the unique relationship with the ocean and the future of surf therapy in helping veterans navigate their post-military lives.

Links

Jason on Facebook

Operation Healing Forces

Information on contributing to future OHF Retreats

Takeaways

Jason transitioned from academia to the military seeking adventure.

Combat experience can lead to significant mental health challenges.

The transition from military to civilian life is often difficult.

Finding purpose after service is crucial for veterans.

Operation Healing Forces provides support through couple retreats.

Surfing serves as a powerful therapeutic tool for veterans.

The ocean offers a unique connection that aids in healing.

Surfing requires complete focus, helping to clear the mind.

Building community and relationships is essential for veterans post-service.

The future of surf therapy holds promise for veterans' healing journeys.

Chapters

00:00 From Academia to the Military: A New Path

05:05 The Impact of 9/11 on Military Careers

07:52 Transitioning from Combat to Civilian Life

14:37 Finding Purpose After Special Forces

23:22 Joining Operation Healing Forces

34:56 Creating Safe Spaces for Conversations

42:21 Personal Journeys: From Novice to Surfer

47:31 The Immersive Experience of Surfing

52:35 The Unique Challenges of Surfing

01:01:08 Future Visions for Surf Therapy Retreats

Summary

In this conversation, Kate Clements shares her journey of personal growth, self-discovery, and the creation of her travel company, Room to Roam. She discusses the healing power of surfing and ocean therapy, particularly in the context of retreats for veterans. The conversation highlights the importance of community, connection, and the joy of learning to surf later in life, emphasizing that it's never too late to embrace new challenges and experiences.

Takeaways

- Reconnecting with home can lead to personal growth.

- Traveling and experiencing new cultures enriches life.

- Creating Room to Roam was a leap of faith.

- Surfing serves as a powerful form of therapy.

- Retreats for veterans provide meaningful connections.

- Learning to surf later in life is empowering.

- The ocean offers a unique perspective on life.

- Community support enhances personal wellness journeys.

- Embracing challenges leads to joy and fulfillment.

Connection with nature is vital for mental health.

Chapters

00:00 Reconnecting with Roots

06:37 Journey of Self-Discovery

12:34 Creating a Life of Purpose

18:25 Empowering Others through Surf Therapy

29:37 Choosing the Right Path

31:05 The Humbling Experience of Learning to Surf

36:11 Surfing as a Metaphor for Life

41:50 The Power of Presence in Surfing

48:11 The Illusion of Control in Surfing

49:09 Building Community Through Surfing

51:03 Focusing on Meaningful Connections

57:40 Supporting Veterans and Strengthening Bonds

59:26 Podcast Outro.mp4

Surf Strong for Life: Unlocking the Secrets to Consistent Fitness and Mobility When I sat down to record this episode of the Surf Strong Express show, my goal was simple: to share the essential strategies and mindset shifts that have allowed me—and can help you—to maintain strength, flexibility, and overall well-being for a lifetime of surfing. Over the years, I’ve learned how to overcome the common obstacles that derail fitness routines and discovered a practical, no-frills approach to building a sustainable, surf-focused training program. Let me share these insights with you. Movement: The Foundation of Surf Fitness For me, movement is non-negotiable. But here’s the thing: it doesn’t have to be complicated. I’ve found that incorporating movement into daily life, no matter how small or simple, is the real foundation of surf fitness. It can be as straightforward as taking a walk around the block or parking further away from where you’re headed. These seemingly minor habits add up, creating a powerful ripple effect that supports more advanced training later on. Starting small and staying consistent has been my secret weapon. Breath: The Overlooked Superpower Breath work has completely transformed my approach to fitness and surfing. I didn’t realize how much of a “superpower” conscious breathing could be until I started integrating it into my day. It’s not just about enhancing surf performance (though it does that, too); it’s about using your breath to support every part of your life, from digestion to stress regulation. I’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from experts like Reese Peluso and Matteo Pistono, who have helped me deepen my daily breath practice. And honestly, it doesn’t have to be complicated—just start by taking a few intentional breaths between tasks during your day. Mobility: The Key to Longevity If there’s one thing I always tell my clients, it’s this: being able to touch your toes is more than just a party trick—it’s a key indicator of overall joint health and range of motion. For surfers, mobility isn’t just helpful; it’s essential for staying in the game long-term. Personally, I’ve learned to prioritize mobility by addressing postural imbalances and taking regular movement breaks throughout the day. Sitting too long? I get up and stretch. Feeling stiff? I do some targeted mobility work. These little actions have been game-changers for me, and they can be for you, too. Overcoming Resistance and Celebrating Progress Let’s be real—staying consistent with fitness isn’t always easy. Our primal brains are hardwired to conserve energy and avoid risk, which can make it tough to stick with a routine. I’ve learned to approach these moments of resistance with compassion. Instead of beating myself up, I celebrate the small wins—a few minutes of stretching, a short workout, or simply showing up for myself. Injuries and setbacks are part of the journey, but they don’t have to derail you. Adjust, adapt, and keep moving forward. The Journey to Lifelong Surf Fitness This episode of Surf Strong Express reflects everything I’ve come to believe about surf fitness: it’s not about perfection; it’s about consistency. By focusing on movement, breath work, and mobility—and by cultivating a mindset of self-compassion—you can unlock the secrets to lifelong surf performance. I’m on this journey alongside you, and I know that together, we can keep surfing strong for life. So, take these strategies, apply them to your own routine, and let’s keep riding the waves for decades to come.

Breath Awareness and Practical Application with Reis Peluso In this episode of the Surf Strong Show, host Greg Finch talks with Reis Peluso, a coach and educator specializing in breath awareness. Reis discusses his work with athletes and the practical applications of breath awareness in daily life, emphasizing the importance of noticing and adjusting one's breathing patterns.

They explore the concept of CO2 tolerance versus air hunger and the psychological impact of breath control.

Reis also shares insights on his Our Breath Collective community and how they integrate breath practices into various settings, including professional sports.

This episode provides valuable tips for anyone looking to understand and optimize their breathing for better performance and quality of life. 00:00 Introduction to the Surf Strong Show 00:09 Meet Reis Peluso: Breath Coach and Educator 01:05 The Importance of Breath Awareness 02:25 Practical Applications of Breath Techniques 03:36 The Role of Curiosity in Breath Work 05:11 Adapting Breath Techniques to Daily Life 09:56 Mechanisms for Breath Awareness 17:53 Understanding Breath vs. Respiration 30:34 The Breath Collective: Community and Practice 34:54 Breath Work with Professional Athletes 39:58 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Alo Slebir discusses his training and focus during the off-season as a big wave surfer. He emphasizes the importance of training out of the water and striving to be better in order to perform well in the next winter season.

He also talks about his circuit workouts, which include a mix of CrossFit and balance work. Alo explains the difference between off-season and in-season training, with a focus on building muscle mass in the off-season and maintaining paddle muscles during the season.

He also discusses the mental and physical challenges of big wave surfing, the importance of decompressing after a big day, and the role of jiu-jitsu in his training and mindset.

Alo highlights the connection between surfing and the ocean, and the importance of staying connected to the ocean in his life. He also talks about his tow partnership with Luca Padua and the trust and communication required in that relationship.

Alo shares his experience of learning and surfing Mavericks, and the challenges and rewards of pursuing big wave surfing. In this conversation, Greg and Alo discusses the intricacies of big wave surfing and the mental and physical preparation required. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the variables involved in surfing, such as swell direction and wave size, and the constant learning process that comes with it.

Alo also highlights the lifelong pursuit of improving surfing skills and the need to remain focused and calm in challenging situations. He shares insights into the safety protocols and checklists followed before tackling big waves, as well as the importance of the Junior Lifeguard program in fostering a love for the ocean.

Emily Hightower discusses her love for outdoor activities such as skiing, hiking, bow hunting, and kayaking. She explains the concept of skinning in skiing and the unique experience of being in nature.

Greg and Emily also discuss the power of water and the importance of being present and connected to the environment. They touch on the challenges of attachment to outcomes and the need to focus on the process rather than the result.

Emily shares practical tips for staying present and detached from outcomes, including visualization and down-regulating the nervous system. In this conversation, Emily Hightower and Greg Finch discuss the importance of regulating the nervous system and the role of breath and movement in managing stress and trauma. They emphasize the need to shift our perspective on stress and view it as an evolutionary tool rather than something to be avoided. They also highlight the power of reconnecting with nature and engaging in activities like surfing to improve overall well-being.

Emily and Greg share their experiences working with first responders and military personnel and how these individuals can benefit from breathwork and movement practices. They also introduce their company, Shift, which focuses on helping individuals understand and interact with their stress physiology to optimize healing and performance.